Bell peppers are awesome but $1.00-1.50 per pepper is outrageous. They're expensive because they are input intensive and not hyper productive plants. Naturally, instead of paying for peppers, I wanted to grow my own. This led me to discover a variety of pepper from True Leaf Market, the "Sunset Italian Pepper- sweet". 

I started mine along with my other peppers (cayenne, habanero, and jalapeno)  early April. They grew quickly compared to other varieties. When I potted them up to 3”x3” pots, I sprinkled a small amount of Dr Earth’s organic fertilizer and transplanted them in late May. I used a mix of Dr Earth’s and Tru-Organics fertilizer throughout the season and each plant responded well. The peppers mature into a variety of colors. I got yellow, orange, and red peppers averaging 4-6”. The flesh of the pepper is medium thickness (in between a bell pepper and the small snack peppers) easy to deseed, and has a mild sweet flavor. The 3 plants I have produced 2-3 mature peppers per week which was easily enough to make several batches of stir fry.  If you’re interested in or currently growing bell peppers I’d recommend giving this variety a try. 

Link to TrueLeaf: 

https://www.trueleafmarket.com/products/organic-sweet-sunset-italian-pepper-mix

If you’re ready to end your dependence on seed oils you’ve come to the right place. Rendering fat at home is a simple process that can be done without specialty tools. I render both beef and pork fats (tallow and lard) at home to use in place of vegetable oil. Check out this beginners guide to rendering fats at home: 

1. Buy raw fat from your local grocery store or butcher. I purchase my fats from a local butcher in bulk. A 5 lb pack costs around $10 and will yield about half a gallon of finished product. I recommend keeping this frozen until you’re ready to use it.

2. Slice and dice! I partially thaw my fat and then use a large knife to shave small pieces off the still firm block. By reducing the size of the pieces you’ll speed up the process of melting down. Note: Fat has a low melting temp and even the heat from your hands will tend to turn a frozen block of fat into a slippery blob. Work quickly, wear gloves to keep things clean, and don’t stab yourself.

3. Cook your trimmings. I use a crockpot on low heat. Low and slow is the name of the game. It’s helpful to add a small amount of water (¼ cup) to the bottom when you first begin rendering the fat. This will help prevent scorching early on.

4. Stir and wait. Within a few hours you’ll begin to see the fat liquify. The key at this point is to monitor for any bits that are browning and scoop them out. Browning will cause your finished product to have a stronger flavor. Note: Stirring at this stage can cause the fat to boil rapidly.

   

5. Strain the remnants. When the majority of your fat has melted into a clear yellow liquid you’re getting close (a full crockpot usually takes 10-12 hrs for me). You can begin straining the solids from your fat. I use a wire strainer first then add a coffee filter or cheesecloth to remove any remaining fine particles.

   

6. Ensure all water is evaporated. I recommend straining your liquid fat into a large saucepan for this step. Keep the fat on the stove over low heat and stir frequently until no more bubbles form. Water when heated creates steam and forms bubbles. No more bubbles means no more water and you’re good to go.

   

7. Let the fat cool and package. After cooling slightly I pack my tallow and lard in pint jars and keep them in the freezer for long term storage. It should solitify at room temperate into a mild smelling white solid. Rendered fat is shelf stable but to prevent the possibility of it going rancid, sacrificing a bit of freezer space isn't that bad. I also refrigerate opened containers with the lid on to prevent any off flavors absorbing in the fridge.

   

What is life without potatoes? Pain. If you feel the same let me share with you this simple technique for growing your own spuds at home. Traditionally, you would plant seed potatoes directly in the soil, hilling or mounding the soil around the plant as it grows, then digging them out of the dirt after the tops die in the fall. Digging potatoes is a pain in the ass and you run the risk of damaging the potato's skin rendering it worthless for long term storage. Many homesteaders have turned to this deep mulch bedding for several reasons. First, deep straw or hay bedding is easy to apply and remove. Instead of heavy digging with sharp tools, you can dig your spuds with your hands. This is less labor and fewer damaged potatoes that won't be able to be stored. Second, the mulch holds moisture and resists weeds. This means after mounding, there is little to no maintence that needs to be done. Scale this method up and you can have hundreds of pounds of potatoes with a very small labor input. Finally, at the end of the season, you have a significant quantity of decomposing carbon that can be returned to the garden. My plan is this year is to mix my remaining hay mulch with cow manure and allow it to compost through winter. 

The steps to this method are very simple:

1. Clear the ground of vegitation. 
2. Prep the soil, can be with a rototiller or as simple as turning it with a shovel and raking it smooth.
3. Lay down your seed potatoes at the desired interval (I shoot for 12-18 inch spacing).
4. Top with a thick layer of hay or staw mulch (Make sure the mulch hasn't been sprayed with any sort of herbicide or you're going to have a bad time.)
5. As the potatoes emerge, keep mounding additional mulch until you reach 18-24 inches.
6. Dream of potatoes.
7. When the tops die off, dig your spuds, cure them, and enjoy.

A few additional notes on potatoes:

This method can also be applied to sweet potatoes which are very different from regular potatoes. The only thing I do differently is adding a trellis for them to vine up. 

Do NOT wash the spuds if you want to keep them in storage. They develop a film that helps them stay fresh longer. As always, keep them in a cool dark place. Wash them only when you're ready to use them. 

Cure potatoes for 10-14 days in a dry dark place @ around 60 degrees. Cure sweet potatoes for 10-14 days in high humidity 85% @ 80-85 degrees. 

If you need seed potatoes: In my area its cheaper to buy organic potatoes by the lb at the local hippy store than it is to buy the seed potato packs at the hardware store.