The Neo Amish
Culture • Lifestyle • Preparedness
Building a culture of self sufficiency, personal responsibility, and moral courage.
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Hedging my bets with perennials.

"You can't get something from nothing" If you want outputs, you better be prepared to add some inputs. That being said, what if you can get a whole lot over time from very little effort up front? I'm not plugging time shares. I'm talking perennials. Finding a plant species that is hearty and once established, produces year after year is the wet dream of many preppers. Luckily, I've been blessed to have access to several of these great resources this year. I've gained a great appreciation for these crops and doing everything I can to expand on their productivity.

The specific crops I want touch on are asparagus, mulberries, and raspberries:

Asparagus- (fiber, folate, Vitamins A, C , and K) not my favorite veggie but given our free access and only input being harvesting, I'm glad to have it around. It grows wild in many places, including marine environments. Currently, I have access to several patches between private and public property. Over four cuttings we took home around 10 lbs of asparagus. The neighbors also cut a significant amount (I'd estimate another 10 lbs or so) off the same patchs. Its a great early season crop that has thrived with no assistance for around 30 years. Dependability and easy of cultivation are a 10 out of 10. (pics below of 1 cutting and after weed-eating around the patch for easier access)

Mulberries- (Vitamin C, K1, E, potassium, iron) 10-15 ft tall and VERY hard to kill. These bad boys offer a massive amount of fruit whether you want it or not. I can't say these have been a staple in my diet previously. I can say what many consider a massive weed, should be utilized as a dependable food resource. The area is littered with more mulberry trees than we could ever need. As someone looking to become self sufficient, I think mulberries are a great resource that can be utilized for both human and animal food. Fresh, frozen, or made into jam, these berries could be essential to getting you by in a pinch. My goal with these trees is to keep them trimmed and productive enough for our own consumption as well as supplemental feed for pigs and chickens. In their current location, they also double as shade and wind protection. (pics below show weekend harvest as well as how they look after pruning and brush removal)

Raspberries- (Fiber, Vitamin C, K, E) Saving the best for last. I love raspberries. My area is known for large wild patches of black raspberries. We don't have many of these established, but many are in the pipeline. (cutting and propagation video in the future?) They taste great, are well adjusted to the local climate, and many neighbors will happily give you all the cuttings you can handle. Whether you're buying from a nursery or propping wild berries, I think these are easily one of the best berries you can have on site for sustainability and food independence. (only one pic below of the current black raspberries we have on site. Plans to take cuttings are in the works.)

Semi honorable mentions- Apple trees, blueberries, golden raspberries
This year we planted 3 apple trees (different varieties), blueberries, and a golden raspberry bush. Although these are all in the same category as the above plants, I've yet to determine how well they grow with minimal inputs. They may turn out to be more effort than is worth while, time will tell. I'm hopeful they will turn out to be fairly productive and will update my experience with them as soon as possible. Sweet potatoes are also on the list as potential candidates although this year, I only planted one, and intent to crop out all of the tubers and slips at the end of the season. I will look into planting a wild patch in the future and again, report my findings.

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Shake what Mother Nature gave ya!
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What is the Neo Amish Podcast all about?

Welcome to the movement!

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30" Bed Ergonomics

This year I wanted to try out 30" in ground beds in the garden. One of the big things market gardeners preach is the ergonomics of this style. I definitely felt awkward planting in this position but within minutes things got smoother, faster, and more comfortable. A few notes: I think after planting 25' (my current bed length) like this I'd want a break. I'm also pretty tall and straddling the beds was a stretch. If you're less vertically gifted I could see this being a struggle. Having a second person around to swap out flats while you plant is very helpful. You can get in a rhythm and move fast. Keeping consistent spacing takes a bit of practice. Use your tools/trays to help estimate spacing and keep things consistent as you go.

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Building Your Own Handbook, lessons from the Urban Farmer

I've never been known for having a stellar memory. I've never been accused of being hyper organized. If you're gardening for a hobby, you can make errors and wing it. If your goal is providing a sustainable source of food for your family, or making your garden a business venture, winging it won't cut it. A trend that I've noticed with Curtis Stone is his precision in everything. Knowing exactly how a crop should perform allows him to rapidly identify deficiencies, plan what crops to plant, and adapt to market demand. He does this by using several excel sheets and continually documenting crop performance. As a noob, having a spread sheet to rapidly identify potential issues or adapt a plan, could make or break my season. I've attached the spreadsheets as examples of my working "Grow Sheets". As I continue, I'll adapt them to include whatever information is essential to a successful season. I encourage others who are working to become more self sufficient to do something similar.

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Garden Totals and Optimism About Next Season

The garden continues to produce but since we're nearing the end of the season, I should do some number crunching to encourage anyone looking to gardening next year. Below I've listed quantities, crop notes, and prices of those goods at the local grocery store. This list will be updated later in the season due to incomplete data but my current totals or estimates: Garden size 20'x30'

Cherry Tomatoes:
Market Price $4.96/lb
Produced- 10 lbs Still producing
Notes- Black cherry and Candy-land, low maintenance, solid producer, great flavor.

Sauce Tomatoes:
Market Price $0.98/lb
Produced- 20lbs Still producing
Notes- Roma VF and San Marzano from seed Burpee seed

Green Beans:
Market Price $1.76/lb
Produced- 5 lbs
Notes- Planted pole beans after bush bean failure, still producing heavily

Asparagus:
Market Price $6.72/lb
Produced- NA 5 lbs
Notes- Collected wild

Yellow Squash:
Market Price $1.48/lb
Produced- 60 lbs
Notes- Heavy Producer, low maintenance, loved hot weather

Zucchini:
Market Price $1.48/lb
Produced- 50 lbs
Notes- ...

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Sunset Italian Peppers
A Superior Alternative to Bell Peppers

Bell peppers are awesome but $1.00-1.50 per pepper is outrageous. They're expensive because they are input intensive and not hyper productive plants. Naturally, instead of paying for peppers, I wanted to grow my own. This led me to discover a variety of pepper from True Leaf Market, the "Sunset Italian Pepper- sweet". 

I started mine along with my other peppers (cayenne, habanero, and jalapeno)  early April. They grew quickly compared to other varieties. When I potted them up to 3”x3” pots, I sprinkled a small amount of Dr Earth’s organic fertilizer and transplanted them in late May. I used a mix of Dr Earth’s and Tru-Organics fertilizer throughout the season and each plant responded well. The peppers mature into a variety of colors. I got yellow, orange, and red peppers averaging 4-6”. The flesh of the pepper is medium thickness (in between a bell pepper and the small snack peppers) easy to deseed, and has a mild sweet flavor. The 3 plants I have produced 2-3 mature peppers per week which was easily enough to make several batches of stir fry.  If you’re interested in or currently growing bell peppers I’d recommend giving this variety a try. 

Link to TrueLeaf: 

https://www.trueleafmarket.com/products/organic-sweet-sunset-italian-pepper-mix

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Rendering Fats at Home
Because Seed Oils Are Fake News

If you’re ready to end your dependence on seed oils you’ve come to the right place. Rendering fat at home is a simple process that can be done without specialty tools. I render both beef and pork fats (tallow and lard) at home to use in place of vegetable oil. Check out this beginners guide to rendering fats at home: 

 

  1. Buy raw fat from your local grocery store or butcher. I purchase my fats from a local butcher in bulk. A 5 lb pack costs around $10 and will yield about half a gallon of finished product. I recommend keeping this frozen until you’re ready to use it.

  2. Slice and dice! I partially thaw my fat and then use a large knife to shave small pieces off the still firm block. By reducing the size of the pieces you’ll speed up the process of melting down. Note: Fat has a low melting temp and even the heat from your hands will tend to turn a frozen block of fat into a slippery blob. Work quickly, wear gloves to keep things clean, and don’t stab yourself.
  3. Cook your trimmings. I use a crockpot on low heat. Low and slow is the name of the game. It’s helpful to add a small amount of water (¼ cup) to the bottom when you first begin rendering the fat. This will help prevent scorching early on.

  4. Stir and wait. Within a few hours you’ll begin to see the fat liquify. The key at this point is to monitor for any bits that are browning and scoop them out. Browning will cause your finished product to have a stronger flavor. Note: Stirring at this stage can cause the fat to boil rapidly.

    Notice the water boiling off and fat browning on bottom left edge
    Notice the water boiling off and browning along bottom left edge.
  5. Strain the remnants. When the majority of your fat has melted into a clear yellow liquid you’re getting close (a full crockpot usually takes 10-12 hrs for me). You can begin straining the solids from your fat. I use a wire strainer first then add a coffee filter or cheesecloth to remove any remaining fine particles.

    The large pieces of fat have almost completely melted leaving the clear yellow lard behind.
  6. Ensure all water is evaporated. I recommend straining your liquid fat into a large saucepan for this step. Keep the fat on the stove over low heat and stir frequently until no more bubbles form. Water when heated creates steam and forms bubbles. No more bubbles means no more water and you’re good to go.

  7. Let the fat cool and package. After cooling slightly I pack my tallow and lard in pint jars and keep them in the freezer for long term storage. It should solitify at room temperate into a mild smelling white solid. Rendered fat is shelf stable but to prevent the possibility of it going rancid, sacrificing a bit of freezer space isn't that bad. I also refrigerate opened containers with the lid on to prevent any off flavors absorbing in the fridge.

    Enjoy not frying your food in motor oil!

 

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Pre-Planting Prep for Indeterminate Tomatoes

A few things to start. There are two broad types of tomato plants, determinate and indeterminate. Determinant tomatoes grow to a certain size and then stop growing. Indeterminate tomatoes will grow continuously throughout the season (FR FR no cap). Determinant tomatoes generally should not be pruned. I select indeterminate varieties because I want to maximize production.The downside to this is they get massive. If you’re low on space, they can easily overrun other plants and crush weak support structures. We don’t play that weak tomato game out here. If you’re wanting to bump your rookie numbers, try out the following with your indeterminates:

Prune lower leaves and allow the wound to heal: Below you will see a close up of my current tomato plants. Several weeks ago they were potted up into 2”x2” pots with a potting mix and dusting of organic fertilizer. They have doubled in size, I’ve rotated them outside to harden them off (acclimate them to the sun and outdoor temp shifts), and they are ALMOST ready to go in the ground. The last thing I do before I plant is prune the lower leaves. This allows me to plant the tomatoes several inches deeper in their permanent home. In red you can see several places where I have clipped leaves. The wounds will scab over in a few days. In green you can see the hairlike fibers above the soil line. These, if planted below the soil line, will become roots. In their current pots, these plants have about 2.5” of root system below the ground. Trimming the lower shoots and planting deep will effectively double the area of the root system. Since these plants will grow continuously through the season, it's a small setback that will pay serious dividends later on. 

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