The Neo Amish
Culture • Lifestyle • Preparedness
Growing Greatness Lessons Learned 2.1
Site Prep and Planning
May 08, 2023
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Last year we faced significant challenges in the garden. We started about 6 weeks later than normal. Heavy clay soil, a dense top layer of sod, and the sudden mechanical failure of our tiller left us turning the garden over by hand. Shoveling and raking in a few large buckets of composted manure was the best we could do to prep the area for planting. The results were good considering the setbacks. 

Things we're keeping the same:

Fence: We rebuilt the electric fence around the new plot (slightly larger). 3 strands of 14 ga wire, 1 around 4-6" off the ground to deter small critters, the other two spaced higher to keep out dogs and bigger animals, Gallagher S20 solar charger. Keep weeds off the wire for best results. 

Put the fear of God into any creature that dares touch your garden.

Seed Starting Station:  GE LED grow lights suspended on a PVC stand, 10"x20" trays with various inserts (72 cell for peppers and tomatoes potted up to 2x2" inserts, 128 cell inserts for onions), a basic heating mat to help with germination, automatic timer for the lights. Pay close attention to your plants when they're in trays. Seed starting mix is relatively void of nutrients and can dry out rapidly. Consider watering from the top and or bottom to ensure your seedlings are getting what they need.

T Posts and Cattle Panels: We live in a high wind area and have opted to ditch the plastic and metal support posts for T posts and cattle panels. Last year after several storms, the cheaper posts were folded over by the wind. The T posts are stronger but make sure you over build as losing a single panel could destory a significant portion of your crops.

Things we're changing up:

Raised Beds: Most of the professional market gardens use a standardized 30" raised bed. To construct these I first tilled the entire garden, added my soil ammendments (details below), tilled the ammendments  in (went opposite direction), then used a large garden rake to mound the soil into the raised beds. Small detail that is critical: RAKE OUT THE GRASS CLUMPS. Even if they're small take the time to remove all the undesired grass and weeds. This will make your life significantly easier later on. 

 

Soil ammendments: We started with almost completely clay soil. Areas we walked on last year (especially under the tarp) turned to concrete. Water did not want to absorb and tended to run downhill to the melon patch where it drowned our Cantalope (stank) melons. I added a total of 10 bricks (25 cubic feet) of peat and 10 (60 lb) bags of sand. Additionally, I like to add worm castings for the beneficial bacteria and worm eggs. I do this near my newly planted trees as well. A $30-100 tree is worth a $3-5 bag of worm crap. 

 

Fertilizer: The big change I'm making is getting away from concentrated liquids. I don't have any particular objetions to liquids but I seem to always over fertilize when using liquid from concentrate. To prevent burning and future issues I've switched to an organic granulated fertalizer. The seedlings seem to love it and I won't scoff at positive results. If you do the same be warned that some of the organic fertilizer options can smell like death. Expert gardener 4-4-4 organic from Wally World is a prime example. I tried Dr Earth's 4-6-3  (availible at big box stores) instead and mixed a small amount in when I potted up tomatoes and peppers. No stink and no burning. All is well.

Walkways: A huge advantage of the raised beds is the natural path formed between beds. I made mine 2 ft wide for easy and quick access. Time is my most precious resource right now. The ability to do garden tasts rapidly is key. If space is more of an issue for you, make them smaller.

Ground Cover: No more tarps. I don't dont have anthing against using poly woven tarps to supress weeds. In fact, the garden area I tarped last year had almost zero weeds growing back this spring. With the clay content of my soild I opted to go with all hay mulch this year. This will help retain water and as it degrades, add organic matter to the soil. I anticipate more weed pressure but counter that by making the walkways more accessable and planting in a pattern that makes weeding much easier. 

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30" Bed Ergonomics

This year I wanted to try out 30" in ground beds in the garden. One of the big things market gardeners preach is the ergonomics of this style. I definitely felt awkward planting in this position but within minutes things got smoother, faster, and more comfortable. A few notes: I think after planting 25' (my current bed length) like this I'd want a break. I'm also pretty tall and straddling the beds was a stretch. If you're less vertically gifted I could see this being a struggle. Having a second person around to swap out flats while you plant is very helpful. You can get in a rhythm and move fast. Keeping consistent spacing takes a bit of practice. Use your tools/trays to help estimate spacing and keep things consistent as you go.

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Building Your Own Handbook, lessons from the Urban Farmer

I've never been known for having a stellar memory. I've never been accused of being hyper organized. If you're gardening for a hobby, you can make errors and wing it. If your goal is providing a sustainable source of food for your family, or making your garden a business venture, winging it won't cut it. A trend that I've noticed with Curtis Stone is his precision in everything. Knowing exactly how a crop should perform allows him to rapidly identify deficiencies, plan what crops to plant, and adapt to market demand. He does this by using several excel sheets and continually documenting crop performance. As a noob, having a spread sheet to rapidly identify potential issues or adapt a plan, could make or break my season. I've attached the spreadsheets as examples of my working "Grow Sheets". As I continue, I'll adapt them to include whatever information is essential to a successful season. I encourage others who are working to become more self sufficient to do something similar.

...

Garden Totals and Optimism About Next Season

The garden continues to produce but since we're nearing the end of the season, I should do some number crunching to encourage anyone looking to gardening next year. Below I've listed quantities, crop notes, and prices of those goods at the local grocery store. This list will be updated later in the season due to incomplete data but my current totals or estimates: Garden size 20'x30'

Cherry Tomatoes:
Market Price $4.96/lb
Produced- 10 lbs Still producing
Notes- Black cherry and Candy-land, low maintenance, solid producer, great flavor.

Sauce Tomatoes:
Market Price $0.98/lb
Produced- 20lbs Still producing
Notes- Roma VF and San Marzano from seed Burpee seed

Green Beans:
Market Price $1.76/lb
Produced- 5 lbs
Notes- Planted pole beans after bush bean failure, still producing heavily

Asparagus:
Market Price $6.72/lb
Produced- NA 5 lbs
Notes- Collected wild

Yellow Squash:
Market Price $1.48/lb
Produced- 60 lbs
Notes- Heavy Producer, low maintenance, loved hot weather

Zucchini:
Market Price $1.48/lb
Produced- 50 lbs
Notes- ...

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Sunset Italian Peppers
A Superior Alternative to Bell Peppers

Bell peppers are awesome but $1.00-1.50 per pepper is outrageous. They're expensive because they are input intensive and not hyper productive plants. Naturally, instead of paying for peppers, I wanted to grow my own. This led me to discover a variety of pepper from True Leaf Market, the "Sunset Italian Pepper- sweet". 

I started mine along with my other peppers (cayenne, habanero, and jalapeno)  early April. They grew quickly compared to other varieties. When I potted them up to 3”x3” pots, I sprinkled a small amount of Dr Earth’s organic fertilizer and transplanted them in late May. I used a mix of Dr Earth’s and Tru-Organics fertilizer throughout the season and each plant responded well. The peppers mature into a variety of colors. I got yellow, orange, and red peppers averaging 4-6”. The flesh of the pepper is medium thickness (in between a bell pepper and the small snack peppers) easy to deseed, and has a mild sweet flavor. The 3 plants I have produced 2-3 mature peppers per week which was easily enough to make several batches of stir fry.  If you’re interested in or currently growing bell peppers I’d recommend giving this variety a try. 

Link to TrueLeaf: 

https://www.trueleafmarket.com/products/organic-sweet-sunset-italian-pepper-mix

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Rendering Fats at Home
Because Seed Oils Are Fake News

If you’re ready to end your dependence on seed oils you’ve come to the right place. Rendering fat at home is a simple process that can be done without specialty tools. I render both beef and pork fats (tallow and lard) at home to use in place of vegetable oil. Check out this beginners guide to rendering fats at home: 

 

  1. Buy raw fat from your local grocery store or butcher. I purchase my fats from a local butcher in bulk. A 5 lb pack costs around $10 and will yield about half a gallon of finished product. I recommend keeping this frozen until you’re ready to use it.

  2. Slice and dice! I partially thaw my fat and then use a large knife to shave small pieces off the still firm block. By reducing the size of the pieces you’ll speed up the process of melting down. Note: Fat has a low melting temp and even the heat from your hands will tend to turn a frozen block of fat into a slippery blob. Work quickly, wear gloves to keep things clean, and don’t stab yourself.
  3. Cook your trimmings. I use a crockpot on low heat. Low and slow is the name of the game. It’s helpful to add a small amount of water (¼ cup) to the bottom when you first begin rendering the fat. This will help prevent scorching early on.

  4. Stir and wait. Within a few hours you’ll begin to see the fat liquify. The key at this point is to monitor for any bits that are browning and scoop them out. Browning will cause your finished product to have a stronger flavor. Note: Stirring at this stage can cause the fat to boil rapidly.

    Notice the water boiling off and fat browning on bottom left edge
    Notice the water boiling off and browning along bottom left edge.
  5. Strain the remnants. When the majority of your fat has melted into a clear yellow liquid you’re getting close (a full crockpot usually takes 10-12 hrs for me). You can begin straining the solids from your fat. I use a wire strainer first then add a coffee filter or cheesecloth to remove any remaining fine particles.

    The large pieces of fat have almost completely melted leaving the clear yellow lard behind.
  6. Ensure all water is evaporated. I recommend straining your liquid fat into a large saucepan for this step. Keep the fat on the stove over low heat and stir frequently until no more bubbles form. Water when heated creates steam and forms bubbles. No more bubbles means no more water and you’re good to go.

  7. Let the fat cool and package. After cooling slightly I pack my tallow and lard in pint jars and keep them in the freezer for long term storage. It should solitify at room temperate into a mild smelling white solid. Rendered fat is shelf stable but to prevent the possibility of it going rancid, sacrificing a bit of freezer space isn't that bad. I also refrigerate opened containers with the lid on to prevent any off flavors absorbing in the fridge.

    Enjoy not frying your food in motor oil!

 

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Pre-Planting Prep for Indeterminate Tomatoes

A few things to start. There are two broad types of tomato plants, determinate and indeterminate. Determinant tomatoes grow to a certain size and then stop growing. Indeterminate tomatoes will grow continuously throughout the season (FR FR no cap). Determinant tomatoes generally should not be pruned. I select indeterminate varieties because I want to maximize production.The downside to this is they get massive. If you’re low on space, they can easily overrun other plants and crush weak support structures. We don’t play that weak tomato game out here. If you’re wanting to bump your rookie numbers, try out the following with your indeterminates:

Prune lower leaves and allow the wound to heal: Below you will see a close up of my current tomato plants. Several weeks ago they were potted up into 2”x2” pots with a potting mix and dusting of organic fertilizer. They have doubled in size, I’ve rotated them outside to harden them off (acclimate them to the sun and outdoor temp shifts), and they are ALMOST ready to go in the ground. The last thing I do before I plant is prune the lower leaves. This allows me to plant the tomatoes several inches deeper in their permanent home. In red you can see several places where I have clipped leaves. The wounds will scab over in a few days. In green you can see the hairlike fibers above the soil line. These, if planted below the soil line, will become roots. In their current pots, these plants have about 2.5” of root system below the ground. Trimming the lower shoots and planting deep will effectively double the area of the root system. Since these plants will grow continuously through the season, it's a small setback that will pay serious dividends later on. 

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